Curries

A Tale of Coke, Idlis, and Chutneys

March 7, 2025

The Coca-Cola Story

In the 1980s, Coca-Cola decided to change its famous formula and introduced “New Coke.” Consumers rebelled, forcing the company to bring back the original formula, rebranded as Coke Classic. Eventually, the “New Coke” experiment was abandoned altogether, and the original taste was restored permanently.

The Origins of Murugan Idli

In a small coffee shop in Madurai, a woman named Mrs. Nayagam began selling idlis—soft and perfectly steamed—accompanied by two chutneys. Though her husband ran the coffee shop, it was her idlis and chutneys that drew the crowds. Despite customers urging her to expand the menu, she refused, choosing to serve only her idlis and chutneys.

In the 1990s, her son, S. Manoharan, carried this legacy forward by founding Murugan Idli Shop in Chennai. Over time, he expanded it to 20 outlets across Chennai and one in Singapore. Yet, the secret chutney recipes his mother had perfected remained unchanged.

Murugan in Singapore

For the last ten years, I have made a fortnightly pilgrimage to Murugan Idli in Singapore. It has become a ritual—every time I return from a trip, the very first thing I do the next morning is head straight there. The sheer joy of dipping an idli into those four perfectly balanced, fluid chutneys was unmatched. To borrow a phrase from another American company, they were finger-licking good!

Murugan Pulls a Coke

But recently, something changed. The chutneys became thicker. The smooth, free-flowing consistency that made them special was replaced with a denser texture. The taste had also changed—subtly but unmistakably. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t the Murugan Idli experience I had cherished for a decade.

Giving Feedback

This morning, I asked for the owner’s number to voice my complaint. By chance, Mrs. Nayagam’s granddaughter, Shanmita, was in the restaurant. I requested to meet her. We spent some time chatting about the history of their venture, and I told her just how much the original watery chutneys meant to me. I urged her to bring them back and even offered to speak to her father.

She listened patiently, smiled, and assured me that she would pass on the feedback to her father and do her best to restore the original formula.

Lessons to Be Learnt

I hope this will be Murugan Idli’s Coke Classic moment. Because some things—whether a drink or a chutney—are just perfect the way they are. They should not be tampered with.

Most importantly, as the saying goes: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Hari’s Curries

A buffet of reflections